Blood And Tartan: The Dark History Behind Skye's Famous Fairy Pools

Photo by Sheng L on Unsplash

Amidst the picturesque landscapes of the Isle of Skye, the Fairy Pools stand as an enchanting attraction, drawing in countless visitors each year. Yet, beneath the serene façade of these cascading waterfalls lies a history steeped in bloodshed and clan rivalries, a story often overlooked by the casual observer.

Originally known as Coire na Creiche in Gaelic, meaning "corrie of the spoils," the Fairy Pools have undergone a transformation in nomenclature over the years. Catherine MacPhee, of the Skye and Lochalsh Archive Centre, traces the shift to the 1930s when the pools were first referred to as the Fairy Pools in a tour guide. This renaming, while seemingly innocuous, has led to the erosion of the site's original identity, relegating its Gaelic heritage to obscurity.

Contrary to the whimsical connotations evoked by its current moniker, the Fairy Pools bear witness to a tumultuous past marked by clan warfare. More than four centuries ago, the MacLeod and MacDonald clans, locked in a bitter feud, clashed violently near these very waters. The catalyst for this confrontation was the dissolution of a marriage alliance between the two rival families, a union intended to mend longstanding grievances.

Legend has it that Margaret MacLeod's failure to conceive led to her ignominious expulsion, mounted on a one-eyed horse as a symbol of her shame. The subsequent battle, recounted in historical records, paints a gruesome picture of rivers stained red with blood and tartan. This visceral imagery serves as a haunting reminder of the brutality that characterized the conflicts between rival Highland clans.

Decker Forrest, a piper and Gaelic tutor, attests to the enduring legacy of these bygone rivalries in traditional music and folklore. Through poignant ballads and stirring melodies, the tales of the MacLeods and MacDonalds continue to reverberate across the windswept moors of Skye, keeping alive the memories of a turbulent past.

As tourists flock to the Fairy Pools in search of natural beauty and tranquility, it is imperative to acknowledge the complex history that lies beneath the surface. Beyond the enchanting allure of crystal-clear waters and verdant landscapes, there exists a narrative of loss, betrayal, and strife, woven into the very fabric of this rugged terrain.

In preserving the legacy of Coire na Creiche, we honour not only the Gaelic heritage of Skye but also the resilience of its people in the face of adversity. The Fairy Pools stand as a testament to the enduring spirit of a land steeped in both myth and reality, where the echoes of the past continue to shape the present.

In today’s email

• Summary of the Higblands and the Isle of Skye

• Visitors Guide to the Highlands and the Isle of Skye

  • Brief history and cultural significance of the Scottish Highlands

  • Geographical features and landscapes:

  • Planning Your Trip to the Scottish Highlands

  • Accommodation options:

  • Exploring the Scottish Highlands

    • Major cities and towns:

    • Natural wonders and scenic spots:

    • Castles and historic sites:

    • Distilleries and whiskey tasting:

    • Outdoor activities and adventure sports:

    • Cultural experiences and events:

    • Practical Information

    • Final Tips and Recommendations

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Here's everything you need to know to make the most of your trip:

1. When to Visit:

The best time to visit is during the warmer months of late spring (May to June) and summer (July to August) when the weather is milder and daylight lasts longer. However keep in mind that Scotland's weather can be unpredictable and it's a good idea to pack for various conditions.

2. Getting There:

You can fly into major Scottish cities like Glasgow or Edinburgh and then travel to the Highlands and Skye by car, bus or train. The nearest major town to the Isle of Skye is Kyle of Lochalsh on the mainland.

3. Transportation:

Renting a car is a popular option for exploring the Highlands and Skye as it provides more flexibility. Public transportation including buses and trains also connect various destinations but schedules might be limited in remote areas.

4. Accommodation:

You'll find a range of accommodation options including hotels, guesthouses , B & Bs and self-catering cottages. It's recommended to book accommodations in advance especially during peak tourist seasons.

5. Highlights:

   - Isle of Skye: Known for its rugged landscapes, iconic Cuillin Mountains and stunning sea cliffs. Don't miss the Old Man of Storr Fairy Pools and the Quiraing.

   - Eilean Donan Castle: A picturesque castle located near the Skye Bridge often seen on postcards and in movies.

   - Loch Ness: Famous for the mythical Loch Ness Monster the lake is also surrounded by beautiful scenery and historic sites.

   - Glen Coe: A dramatic glen with towering peaks and a history of clan warfare.

   - Ben Nevis: The highest peak in the UK offering opportunities for hiking and breathtaking views.

6. Outdoor Activities:

The Scottish Highlands are a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. You can enjoy hiking, mountain climbing, kayaking , cycling and even wildlife watching. Remember to be well-prepared for outdoor adventures and to respect the environment.

7. Culture and History:

   - Whisky Distilleries: The Highlands are known for their whisky production. Consider visiting a distillery to learn about the whisky-making process and enjoy tastings.

   - Clan History: The Highlands have a rich history of clan battles and folklore. You can explore this history through various museums and historical sites.

   - Gaelic Language: The Highlands have a strong Gaelic heritage and you might encounter Gaelic signage and hear the language spoken in some areas.

8. Local Cuisine:

Sample traditional Scottish dishes such as haggis neeps and tatties (turnips and potatoes) smoked salmon and of course Scottish shortbread. Many towns also have excellent seafood restaurants.

9. Respect Local Customs:

Be mindful of local customs and etiquette especially in smaller communities. Scottish people are generally friendly and showing respect goes a long way.

10. Safety and Leave No Trace:

Ensure you're adequately prepared for outdoor activities as the weather can change quickly. Follow the "Leave No Trace" principles to minimize your impact on the environment.

Remember the Scottish Highlands and the Isle of Skye offer an unforgettable experience so take your time to soak in the beauty history and culture of this remarkable region.

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A Visitors Guide to the Scottish Highlands

Photo by Bjorn Snelders on Unsplash